How one Portland restaurant evened out restaurant wages

By contemporary standards, SuperBite’s menu is relatively long. There are nearly 30 dishes available at the Portland, Ore. restaurant, opened this spring by James Beard Foundation Award nominees Greg Denton and Gabrielle Quiñónez Denton, and guests are supposed to order a bunch of them.

In practice, that means the pass is perpetually chockablock with braised king trumpet mushrooms; halibut fish sticks; duck liver scrambled eggs and the Dentons’ truffle-gilded interpretation of SpaghettiOs. “There are dozens of dishes leaving the kitchen every minute,” Gabrielle Denton says.

That arrangement was part of the inspiration for what the Dentons call a “one-house system,” a clever solution to the nationwide problem of underpaid cooks....

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